Page 2 - taking your dash apart, things can go much faster.
2 In addition, the retrofit illustrated was performed on an E90 with a build date of 10/06. Wiring harnesses and subsystems can vary dramatically with different build dates. If you are considering this retrofit, make sure to carefully consult the BMW WDS for your exact car. I utilized the BMW TIS fo...
Page 3 - Nomenclature; center console and allows you control the system.
3 Nomenclature Business or Professional Navigation? - BMW created two levels of navigation sophistication. “Business” is a simple navigation system with limited capability, small 6.5” screen and is not available to some markets, including the U.S. “Professional” is BMW’s higher-end system, with 3D m...
Page 4 - Wire identification:
4 Wire identification: Wire Color BL Blue BR Brown GE Yellow GN Green GR Gray OR Orange RS Pink RT Red SW Black VI Violet WS White TR Transparent -If a wire is labeled with two colors, such as OR/GN – the first color is the base color of the wire (in this case orange) and the second color is the str...
Page 6 - Getting Started / Disassembly; – you won’t be using that old radio anymore!
6 Getting Started / Disassembly Just do it now – empty out your glove box, center console, and don’t forget to remove the CD from your radio – you won’t be using that old radio anymore! Pry out the climate control module with a trim tool – try not to snap off the trim. The module is just held in wit...
Page 10 - Remove both cup holders by removing the four Phillips screws.
10 Remove both cup holders by removing the four Phillips screws.
Page 15 - shifter if equipped. Unplug the lighter wiring connector.
15 Pull up very hard on the transmission shift knob (without punching yourself in the face when it pops off!) – do not twist it! Then gently pull up the center console trim - It’s held in tightly with spring clips. It was easier for me to use the rubberized coin pocket as a “handle” and pull straigh...
Page 18 - often held in very tightly.
18 Slide the seats back, move the steering wheel down and all the way back, and disconnect the battery. GENTLY, pry up the center dash trim. This piece will bend, break, and cost a lot to replace if you damage it. Use the pry tool slowly and wedge this trim out without denting or marring the trim. I...
Page 19 - lock buttons and carefully remove the trim
19 Once this center trim is off, disconnect the three wiring connectors for the start button, the DSC/hazard/door lock buttons and carefully remove the trim
Page 20 - Gently pry up the speaker trim.
Page 23 - rock it down and out of the dash. Unplug the connector and remove it.
23 CAREFULLY, pry out the driver’s side vent/trim. Then just pull the headlight switch straight towards you and rock it down and out of the dash. Unplug the connector and remove it.
Page 24 - (Completely disconnecting the
24 Make sure you have already disconnected your battery before you continue! (Completely disconnecting the negative terminal in the trunk is the easiest.) Also make sure it’s been disconnected at least 20 minutes before starting this next step. To disengage the airbag from the steering wheel (sport ...
Page 25 - Then remove each connector from the airbag and set it aside.
25 Once the airbag is unlatched, pry up on the small black tabs on each squib connector to unlock the connectors. Then remove each connector from the airbag and set it aside.
Page 27 - Pry up the upper steering wheel trim and pop the clips on each side.
27 Pry up the upper steering wheel trim and pop the clips on each side.
Page 28 - pins and push them out. Remove the upper trim.
28 Pull out the trim, exposing the “leather” trim on top of the column. Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze these pins and push them out. Remove the upper trim.
Page 31 - Unplug both connectors from the bottom-back of the switch.
31 Unplug both connectors from the bottom-back of the switch.
Page 32 - set the gauges aside.
32 Unscrew the two screws holding the gauge assembly in place. Remove the gauges, unplug the connector and set the gauges aside.
Page 36 - It should look something like this now:
36 Roll the dash back towards you, lifting it slightly to clear the steering column. The dashboard is light and can be placed on your lap and lifted out the of vehicle – although help removing/installing the dashboard is recommended. I did it by myself from the driver’s side without an issue. It sho...
Page 37 - This is what is removed!
Page 40 - This is what it looks like “AFTER” you attach the cooling hose:
40 This is what it looks like “AFTER” you attach the cooling hose: Make sure to wedge the rubber mounting loop/flange onto the existing post on the IHKA box.
Page 50 - CCC Fan
50 CCC Fan If you are lucky, you will find one of the remaining business-to-pro retrofit fan harnesses out there. I was able to get one from a salvage yard who chopped-out the entire radio connector including the fan harness and pins. If you have to make one, here’s how it hooks up. The little fan o...
Page 51 - GPS Antenna Cable
51 GPS Antenna Cable You need to run an additional antenna cable for the navigation system – it’s not already in the harness (at least it wasn’t in my harness.) I decided to take the easy path since I already had the center console out of the car. Pull up the front edges of the back seat and yank th...
Page 52 - extension cable you just ran. It should look like this:
52 Then run the antenna wire underneath the back seat-back and into the trunk. Lift up the cargo tray and observe the TCU on the right side. Unhook the blue Fakra connector from the TCU and hook that wire to the extension cable you just ran. It should look like this: Nothing should be hooked to the ...
Page 57 - Wrapping it up; modules are coded to make note of the equipment change.; Programming; how to make those changes.
57 Wrapping it up Putting the rest together is cake. As for the center console, you will need to swap over your shift boot and ashtray to the new trim. In addition, you will need to mount the I-drive controller to the bottom of the new trim with 4 screws. Make sure to plug the controller into your n...
Page 58 - Troubleshooting; NO AUDIO – This is entirely normal if the car hasn’t been coded yet.; Notes; doc for others to benefit from. Forward them to:
58 Troubleshooting I’ve had plenty of issues while trying to figure this retrofit out…hopefully if you run into problems, these will help: NO AUDIO – This is entirely normal if the car hasn’t been coded yet. NO DISPLAY – Make sure the fuse is not blown. Also, if the bus wires are not hooked up, the ...